Cycling the South Downs Way with a twelve year old
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| Edith at Lewes YHA |
What was I thinking?
Edith and I cycled part of the South Downs Way back in 2016 when she was ten years old and I was recovering from a bad cycle crash (I remember some of my scars started bleeding after getting sun burnt). Towards the end of 2017 we started planning another 'adventure weekend' for the following summer. After much debate and enjoyable research, we decided to do something really epic and try and complete the South Downs Way in its entirety.
We knew it was going to be a challenge but if a ten year old can do almost forty miles in a day and a half, then a twelve year old can do one hundred miles in four full days, can't they?
We knew it was going to be a challenge but if a ten year old can do almost forty miles in a day and a half, then a twelve year old can do one hundred miles in four full days, can't they?
The Plan
The South Downs Way is pretty much 100 miles long from Winchester to Eastbourne. There are a lot of blogs, websites, books, leaflets etc describing the route. The excellent Cicerone guide describes a three day plan of roughly equal segments by distance. Although my daughter is tall and strong for her age and mentally tough, I felt that it would be foolish to attempt a three day plan. The first third of the route was described as 'considerably easier terrain' than the second two thirds. Based on this, and the limited time I could take off work, I decided to cycle the first third exactly as the guides state then split the second two thirds over three days. The availability of accommodation was also a deciding factor as I did not want to have to cycle a long distance off the trail to where ever we were staying. On our previous visit I had experienced first hand that getting on and off the South Downs Way usually involves very steep climbing on narrow, busy roads populated by drivers who might not always give a young cyclist the space she needs to feel safe.
An additional constraint on us was transportation to and from the Way. Nobody was available to give us lifts. We needed to get a train since we live about seventy five miles from Winchester. We live north of London and you can only take a bike on the train through the London core on Thameslink before 7am and after 7pm. This means we needed to go super early (which we wanted to do anyway) and come back quite late.
In addition to over night accommodation and an essential route profile with heights and distances, I also had a couple of bail out points where we could abort from if needed.
In addition to over night accommodation and an essential route profile with heights and distances, I also had a couple of bail out points where we could abort from if needed.
Practicalities
Accommodation
Proximity to the South Downs Way was prime requirement followed by bike storage facilities and availability of food nearby. YHA hostels were the preferred solution, followed by B&Bs. YHAs have the advantage of being very very reasonably priced and I like the atmosphere they usually have.
- Night 1: Moonlight Cottage, Cocking, bike storage, great food, very very friendly.
- Night 2: Truleigh Hill YHA. Functional but pleasant with good facilities and great location.
- Night 3: Lewes YHA. Best YHA I have ever been in.
Bikes
- Edith: Rigdeback hyrid, no suspension, 26" wheels.
- Andrew: Trek Marlin 5, hardtail 29"
What did we pack
We travelled pretty light, aided by unusually warm, dry and predictable weather. Given we were away for four long days and we seemed only to have a little more gear than I would pack going to work every day!
I had a largish Lowe Alpine 35 litre backpack which was comfortable enough but larger than I would have preferred for long distance biking. This is the same ruck sack I use for commuting. I also had a 5 litre saddle back and a 2 litre frame bag. Edith had a small OMM running rucksack which holds 15 litres.
- Water bottles
- First aid kit
- Waterproof jackets.
- Jumpers
- Edith had casual cycling shorts with padding.
- Andrew had 3/4 length shorts with added padding.
- Three changes of clothes each.
- Helmets
- Sun creme
- Several spare inner tubes (luckily!)
- Multitool, pump, tyre repait kit
How it happened
Day 1 - Winchester to Cocking
Distance: 36 milesMetres climbed: 1100
Weather: Hot, dry, sunny, good visibility and dry underfoot.
Trains caught: 2
Pub meals consumed: 1
Getting to Winchester
We were up and out of bed before five, straight into our cycling gear (no time for showers!) and on our way within minutes.
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| From Blackfriars to Waterloo |
We arrived at Blackfriars and had a very pleasant ride along the south bank Thames Path over to Waterloo where we jumped straight on a train to Winchester.
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| Great bike storage on South Western Railways train |
The first morning
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| Breakfast at Winchester Cathedral |
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| Start of the Way in Winchester |
The start of the Way as pretty much gentle as advertised. There was a climb which woke up Edith's stiff legs immediately out of Winchester but after that, it was slightly undulating.
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| Lunch at the George and Falcon |
We took the easier route which avoided the steep climbed up Beacon Hill and instead descended into Warnford. On the descent Edith had her first minor accident of the trip when her bike slipped on the gravel track. I had brought a comprehensive first aid kit which made its first of many appearanes here to treat some minor cuts and grazes. Entering Warnford we had an excellent lunch at The George and Falcon.
A very long afternoon
Immediately upon leaving Warnford we started climbing. It felt like hard work at the time but nobody stopped so it can't have been that bad. This section was on a quiet road.
We then bumped down a nice grassy trial, typical of the SWD to East Meon Ponds. I had a brand new inner tube on my rear wheel and it chose this point to split down a seam. If you are going to get a puncture, get one here on a roasting Friday afternoon. We had cold cans of coke from the little shop and Edith had two ice lollies. It was very reasonably priced and we popped the money in the honesty box after calling the proprietor on the mobile number taped to the fridge door! Very different to some of the tourist traps where the SWD bisects busy roads.
About seven years ago my eldest son and I camped out at the Sustainability Centre which sits on the pathway. At that time there was a derelict military base next door (I think the other half of the base became the sustainability centre). I was looking out for it and was surprised when instead we came across a new housing estate.
We plodded on, with some on quiet on road sections up to Butser Hill, which we have visisted several times in the past. Its not too steep an ascent but the downhill section, on smooth, rolling grassy downland, was a joy. It was empty of people and altough I was very cautious, not wanting to hit a rabbit hole and come off with such a long way to go, I still hit 30mph! Edith took it slower, but still fast enough to enjoy herself. We stopped for more drinks and to use the tap and toilets at the QEII visitors centre at the bottom of the hill.
We followed the SWD route out of the centre and for the first time stopped following the red ribbons marking the way of the next day's race. Big mistake. It was getting on for five o'clock and Edith was tiring. The official route took us up a very steep, rough hill which was too much for her and we had to walk our bikes up. After a sharp climb, we then went straight back down again on quite a rough trail. At that point we met the red ribbons on the race route again which had avoided the unnecessary hill.
By this point Edith was beat and unfortunately we still had fourteen miles to ride. The rest of the afternoon was one to forget with her dragging herself miserably along, barely able to move her bike going down the bumpy tracks and getting off to walk every time she came across gravel. We then had three or four miles of undulating gravel tracks which sapped her strength completely.
Finally we made it to Harting Downs, which was a steeper climb and some great views. Unfortunately I misread the map and getting tired myself, took us up Beacon Hill, which isnt even on the SWD. I had to lug both bikes, one at a time up it was so steep. I was very tired myself by this point but even so realised that we must be going wrong but it was too much effort to go back. We got to the summit, took pictures and gingerly made our way down. I had utterly exhausted Edith by this point.
Coming off the hill I came across a guy laying prone across the path. For a second I thought I had come across some sort of casualty but then he rolled over and said he was just having a rest and enjoying the view. It was a nice view but I would have been worried about getting run over by bikes etc!
We then bumped down a nice grassy trial, typical of the SWD to East Meon Ponds. I had a brand new inner tube on my rear wheel and it chose this point to split down a seam. If you are going to get a puncture, get one here on a roasting Friday afternoon. We had cold cans of coke from the little shop and Edith had two ice lollies. It was very reasonably priced and we popped the money in the honesty box after calling the proprietor on the mobile number taped to the fridge door! Very different to some of the tourist traps where the SWD bisects busy roads.
About seven years ago my eldest son and I camped out at the Sustainability Centre which sits on the pathway. At that time there was a derelict military base next door (I think the other half of the base became the sustainability centre). I was looking out for it and was surprised when instead we came across a new housing estate.
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| We take a quick break at the top of a hill |
We followed the SWD route out of the centre and for the first time stopped following the red ribbons marking the way of the next day's race. Big mistake. It was getting on for five o'clock and Edith was tiring. The official route took us up a very steep, rough hill which was too much for her and we had to walk our bikes up. After a sharp climb, we then went straight back down again on quite a rough trail. At that point we met the red ribbons on the race route again which had avoided the unnecessary hill.
By this point Edith was beat and unfortunately we still had fourteen miles to ride. The rest of the afternoon was one to forget with her dragging herself miserably along, barely able to move her bike going down the bumpy tracks and getting off to walk every time she came across gravel. We then had three or four miles of undulating gravel tracks which sapped her strength completely.
Finally we made it to Harting Downs, which was a steeper climb and some great views. Unfortunately I misread the map and getting tired myself, took us up Beacon Hill, which isnt even on the SWD. I had to lug both bikes, one at a time up it was so steep. I was very tired myself by this point but even so realised that we must be going wrong but it was too much effort to go back. We got to the summit, took pictures and gingerly made our way down. I had utterly exhausted Edith by this point.
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| Edith on Beacon Hill, shattered and off-piste |
Since Edith was beat, rather than climb the last hill of the day, Cocking Down, we came off on a bridleway which bisected the downs and did the last four miles on the quiet roads. Even these undulated too much for Edith!
We arrived in Cocking and made our way to our B&B for the evening, the excellent Moonlight Cottage. I had failed to read their email confirming our booking until this week so hadn't booked food. Now, I really regretted it. The owners were very very kind and made Edith and I an excellent dinner, washed down with gallons of cold water flavoured with lemon. Pure heaven. They made a massive fuss over Edith which helped her morale no ends. The B&B was full of mountain bikers who had made the same trip we had and their praise for Edith's achievement gave her what I hoped would be an effective boost.
We arrived in Cocking and made our way to our B&B for the evening, the excellent Moonlight Cottage. I had failed to read their email confirming our booking until this week so hadn't booked food. Now, I really regretted it. The owners were very very kind and made Edith and I an excellent dinner, washed down with gallons of cold water flavoured with lemon. Pure heaven. They made a massive fuss over Edith which helped her morale no ends. The B&B was full of mountain bikers who had made the same trip we had and their praise for Edith's achievement gave her what I hoped would be an effective boost.
Day 2 - Cocking to Truleigh Hill
Distance: 27 miles
Metres climbed: 900
Weather: Very hot, dry, sunny, good visibility and dry underfoot.
Tearful episodes: Several
Expensive lunches partially consumed: 1
Metres climbed: 900
Weather: Very hot, dry, sunny, good visibility and dry underfoot.
Tearful episodes: Several
Expensive lunches partially consumed: 1
Not a good morning
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| Edith at Moonlight Cottage |
After a good sleep in a comfy bed followed by an excellent breakfast, we left Moonlight Cottage and headed back to the SWD. The road up to the ridge from the village is narrow, busy and fast. There is no footpath to walk up if its gets too steep, you just have to keep going. I did ask about alternatives but everybody advised me there weren't any practical. I did see a signpost that indicated otherwise at the top but by that time it was too late.
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| Unpleasant stretch of road at Cocking |
All of the benefit of the warm praise, good food and a sleep Edith had had appeared to be destroyed on that climb up the road, with me riding well out to make sure the cars didn't pass too close. Most were fine but a couple were inconsiderately fast and near as they went past. When we got to the top and back on the SWD the climbing didn't stop and Edith hit her lowest point of the whole trip. She was convinced she couldn't continue and did a good job of convincing me too! The next bail out point was ten miles away at Amberley. We decided to keep going until then and make our decision on whether to continue at that point. I was trying to keep externally calm, but it was hard I am sure Edith realised how bitterly disappointed I was. I was really committed to meeting our goal and although I had backup plans if Edith wasn't strong enough, I really wanted to finish this. Never a great situation for a father to place himself in.
We hit the SDW just after nine and the race had started at six in Winchester that morning so a steady stream of cyclocross and mountain bikers were flying past us. They were going pretty damn fast up the hills and kicking up huge plumes of dust screaming back down. We kept a close eye over our shoulders and got out of the way whenever they passed us, often holding open the numerous gates for racers. They were all polite and supportive of us!
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| Back on the ridge heading towards Bignor Hill |
Edith was feeling very down so we made an agreement. There was no point spoiling it for the sake of trying to ride up when it was impossible. As soon as it got too steep, she would jump off, then I would follow suit and push both bikes up. This makes for slow progress BUT its still progress and if you keep going YOU WILL FINISH. I promised I wouldn't be annoyed no matter how slow we went. I think this agreement was the backbone for the rest of our trip. Edith knew that no matter how hard it got, we would make it and I wouldn't be cross with her. Our speed going up steep ascents from that point was about 2mph, inevitably with a water and snack break at the top.
We had great views across to the English Channel as we climbed up to Bignor Hill, with a constant stream of racers passing us. We descended steeply off the ridge down to Amberley where we came off the SDW and detoured into the village to get some lunch.
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| Half of this will not get eaten |
We cross the impressive bridge across the Arun and stopped at the Riverside Tea Rooms. They were very friendly and attentive, supplying us with a big jug of water and filling out water bottles as soon as we sat down by the river. Edith attempted to eat a massive pizza but even though she had done twelve hard miles that morning since breakfast on top of the previous day's thirty six, her eyes were still bigger than her tummy and it defeated her. I, on the other hand, would have to have eyes the size of bin lids for that to apply to me so I polished off a very pleasant tuna sandwich with no problem.
It was in the tea rooms I experienced a repeating phenomenon that dogged us for the rest of the day. Truleigh Hill was only fourteen miles away at this point, but the waitress had never heard of it and looked at me like I was mad when I suggested it was a large youth hostel half a day's ride away. The previous evening we had been told that if you use a luggage service they refuse to go to Truleigh. Go figure!
Onwards to Truleigh Hill
After lunch, as per the previous day, we went straight into a climb, off road this time. Fairly quickly we got to the top and bounced along the ridge for a few miles. One final climb before we descended down into the valley and rode along the River Adur briefly before cross the bridge and the main road. There was one of the fantastic water points after the bridge and we filled our bottles. The trip would have been very much harder, if not impossible, without these essential utilities.
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| Riding parallel to the river Adur |
Once we got to the YHA, showered, fed and watered, we watched Russia get knocked out of the world cup with a mixed and friendly bunch of people in the refectory.
Day 3 - Truleigh Hill to Southsea
Distance: 20 miles
Metres climbed: 640
Weather: Still hot, dry and sunny
Ice creams: 4
Youth Hostels amazed by: 1
The weather was perfect, the views were exceptional and there was only one steep climb. I think Edith found day three much easier going. We started with a friendly breakfast at the YHA and then were on our way before nine. After the early start on day 1 having some sort of lie in (07:30ish) was heaven.
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| Taking a break at Ditching Beacon |
We paused at Dichling to eat our ice creams and watch the road cyclists coming up the hard way before heading off along the ridge.
The next few miles were very pleasant rolling farmland, cycling though fields of ripe corn ready to be harvested. Not sure what crop it was, possibly barley, but some fields smelt fantastic.
There were some undulations with some opportunities to go whizzing down the path and others to trudge up the steep slope. The section through the wood at Bunkershill was steep enough that even if I had been on my own without Edith, I am pretty sure I would have had to jump off and push the bike. After descending again we reached Housedean Farm which has a top and we refilled our bottles again. With the heat, we were getting through the water very quickly. I had a 750ml bottle and Edith a 500 and 250 but even so we needed a refill every hour or so. At several points Edith drank all of her water and half of mine. If the taps had not been present it would have been an unpleasant ride.
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| Coming down (slowly!) off to South Farm, near Rodmell |
As we passed fields of flowers being commercially grown (not sure what there were or even what they were for, animal food? decoration?) we passed a big pile of flints that looks like somebody has dumped a load ready to build a wall. Apparently that marks the Greenwich meridian!
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| Crossing the River Ouse at Southease |
We came down off the ridge down to Southease, over the river and passing through to the railway station, where we used the level crossing (novelty factor). A very short stretch down the road brought us to our final destination for the day, the excellent Lewes YHA.
I liked Truleigh Hill, which is functional, but Lewes is something different. In a recently converted (2015) farm which itself dates back the 13th century this is something special. Edith and I loved the mix of modern facilities with the old farm buildings.
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| The YHA's 'snacking menu'! |
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| Lewes YHA's 13th Century Farm House |
We sat for an hour or so chatting to the other residents including the couple we had passed earlier in the day. They were exactly the sort of people we always seem to come across at youth hostels, polite, interesting, athletic and self-deprecating.
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| Our room at Lewes |
reasonably well considering.
Edith and I had another ice cream (it was still very very hot, even at nine in the evening) before watching the sun go down behind the ridge we had ridden along that afternoon. It was an excellent end to an excellent day.
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| The sun goes down on an excellent day from Lewes YHA |
Day 4 - Southsea to Eastbourne
Distance: 16 miles
Metres climbed: 580
Weather: Slightly cooler but still very hot enough for sunbathers in Eastbourne
Hours spent on delayed train: 4
Long distance trails completed: 1
Metres climbed: 580
Weather: Slightly cooler but still very hot enough for sunbathers in Eastbourne
Hours spent on delayed train: 4
Long distance trails completed: 1
Another great YHA breakfast and we made an early start on our final short day. Unlike day three, there were a couple of big climbs but I was confident that the shorter distance and having the end in sight would mean we would roar along.
It was a little cooler and for a couple of minutes out of the YHA I almost considered putting on a jumper but the stiff climb up Itford Hill soon warmed us both up.
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| Bridge over the A26 after Lewes YHA |
We bumped along the top for a few miles, through herds of cows and vast numbers of sheep up to the radio masts up to Firle Beacon where we stopped again to admire the view. There were paragliders here as well which added to the atmosphere as well as legions of dog walkers whom we could have done without.
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| View north from Firle Beacon |
We avoided the foot bridge (on advice from the Cicerone guidebook) and rode along the road for a short distance before making the only right hand turn I can recall for the whole trip, back onto tracks up the hill, rejoining the south downs way. The climb up Windover Hill required Edith and I to jump off and (me) to push again. I think we could have cycled up really but legs were tired by this point. The hills are very rolling at this end and being Monday it was lovely and quiet. I was feeling a bit sad our adventure was coming to an end.
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| Climbing Windover Hill |
Eastbourne was a bit underwhelming, even in the summer sun. Crowds of elderly people and school trips wandering around, lots of empty shops, traffic and dirt.
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| Heading down to Eastbourne |
We found a Pizza Express where we could eat next to our bikes and wasted thirty quid on fancy cheese on toast.
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| The end of the SWD! |
A final ice cream and a paddle in the sea and we cycled to railway station and started the long trip back. Eastbourne to Haywards Heath was okay but after that we ran into the delays which had been plagueing Thameslink. Getting space on the train was not a problem, which had been a worry, and it was simply a case of letting the train get on with it. I had been careful about avoiding the London core before 19:00 but as it turned out, it was closer to 20:00 by the time we passed through and the rush was thankfully over. We pulled into St Albans tired but pleased with our achievement.
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| Finally, the sea front at Eastbourne |
